Bustling Barcelona with the Simons!

Simon and I bid a sad farewell to Edinburgh, I really love that city, definitely somewhere I could live easily and now it holds such memories for us! We caught a Ryan air flight down to Barcelona for a few days to catch up with my cousin, Simon Mason (Christmas dinner with the family will be too confusing with multiple Simons! It will require my Simon being renamed I think!). Luckily all went smoothly with our flight, although ryanair was a bit disturbing with constant sales pitches over the loudspeaker for food, duty free items (both to be expected), calling cards, lotto tickets and even smokeless cigarettes (for those who can't go 1.5hrs without a nicotine hit!). They even played a little congratulatory song for arriving on time, random!

We caught the Aerobus to Sants train station and transferred to the subway and made it to our hotel. Simon Mason and his workmate, Ignatio, met us a few minutes later and took us to a nice restaurant for some traditional fare, yum! Dinner over here is pretty late, after 9pm is not out of the ordinary.

The Madrid-Barcelona football (ie, soccer!) game was being played, so the streets were deserted, with everyone inside glued to their tv's, it was quite bizarre! The waiter wasn't really very interested in taking our order when the tv was on in the background!

The next morning, the room's blinds were shut and we slept in. I went to check the time and expected 9am (a pretty good sleep in for me), but shockingly discovering 1pm!! That's a first for me, but as Mum always says, 'you obviously needed it' - fighting a cold will do that I guess!

So we headed out to explore the city, walked along the bustling busy street of La Ramblas, it was a bit intimidating after the relative calm and easy atmosphere of the royal mile in Edinburgh, with Spanish conversations left, right, and centre.

On the streets of Barcelona

We visited some of the sights of Barcelona, in particular, the famous Santa Maria del Mar

The bit of Santa Maria del Mar that could fit in my camera screen!

Greenery on a Barcelona street

Waterfront

Another trip was a walk up to Montjuic (seen behind in the crazy sculpture loops below!) to have a good view of the city and suburbs. There was an old fort on tipped of the hill, with huge cannons that disturbingly, didn't look that old.

Montjuic in the background

The view from part of the way up Montjuic

Simon and I ventured on the metro across to La Sagrada Familia, which had so many tourist buses lined up outside, a 200m line to get tickets, and queues within the building that we didn't bother to go inside.

La Sagrada Familia - the church that just keeps on being built!

From here we walked down a few streets and then followed Diagonal up until we got to the station, it took a bit longer than we had thought (Mum, think our Munich 'we will find a bakery around the next corner' expedition!!)

One of the old bull fighting arenas, after the ban comes into play this year, we're not sure what they'll do there...

From there we headed to Parc Guell, and fought the throngs of tourists to get a feel of the place. I think I'll have to do more Gaudi research before I'll understand any of it!

A lot of people (tourists) and a bit of Parc Guell

Another Gaudi building

We started to focus our exploration on the alleyways of Barcelona

After seeing a few of the Gaudi sights, Simon and I started to just explore the alleyways of the city, we found some pretty cool little shops and areas that we otherwise wouldn't have even imagined existed. That's the side of Barcelona that I enjoyed the most (apart from the food!).

Outside the Arc de Triomph

Simon Mason also took us to places like Arc de Triomph, and we had many lunches and dinners at places recommended by his workmates in Barcelona (local knowledge is the best!). One night we went to a seafood restaurant on a street that was rather inconspicuous, you walk in, pick your fish (that is all laid out on ice in front of you, some still moving (eugh! But at least it's fresh!) to be cooked for you, grab some drinks and a table and wait for your number to be called. We feasted!

Our amazing seafood feast at La Paradeta - yum!

Wandering streets during our days, Simon liked looking at all the patisseries and delis in the city, especially the selection of jamon!

Simon likes the delis in Barcelona, lots of cured meats! (sorry to Chloe and Kristy!)

We frequented bars Simon Mason recommended, one had the most amazing gin and tonic, as Simon M said, 'you can tell the guy really loves it', as each g&t prepared by this bartender (in a flannel like shirt done all the way up to his collar!) had about five steps, swirling large cubes of ice to cool the glass (presumably!), rinds of lime and lemon which were worked vigorously with a contraption of some sorts, with gin and tonic added at the end; I think there might have been some sugar in there too, it tasted pretty lolly like! Yum! We got home a little late that night(!), but not late for Spanish standards, the clubs and bars don't get going till after 2 around here.

Even Simon's iPhone had a few too many by the time of this G&T!

On Saturday, Simon Mason took us to Sitges ('Sit-ches'), a 40min train hop from Barcelona, it is largely a very pretty tourist beach town. We walked along the foreshore, passed many groups having wedding photos taken, sampled some tapas, local beers and wine from various places along our way and made it to a restaurant recommended by a workmate of Simon M's, Ignatio.

Streetscape in Sitges

Simon Mason and I outside one of the Churches in Sitges - loving the blue sky!

We were there for paella, and according to Ignatio, traditionally, it must be prepared and eaten within sight of the ocean, must not be a 'mixed' paella, and many other rules I won't go into here! We started with the biggest steamed mussels I have ever seen, munched on fine paella with fresh prawns and mussels, sipped a nice white wine alongside and watched the ocean roll in (the restaurant was on the beachfront). After all that we went for a lie down next to the beach to digest and watched kite-surfers get dunked in the surf, what a fiddly and exhausting sport!

Sitges beach-strip

We lay on the grass over the beach at Sitges to let everything digest!

On the Sunday, Simon M met us after his epic morning mountain bike ride and we wandered around the Barceloneta area, had a burger at one of his fave places and sipped beer by the foreshore.

Simon's ultra burger that included blue cheese!

That night we had tapas at a very traditional catalunya'n restaurant, it was delicious! We started to feel like we'd eaten far too well this week, some salads are required next week!

Catalan Tapas with Jamon, Goats cheese and Duck Pate

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Location:Passeig de Montjuïc,Barcelona,Spain

ENGAGED in Edinburgh!

So...... the details....... (as requested!!!!)

Simon had been incredibly romantic and flown around the world to come and visit me on my three months away (originally planned as a surprise but he was worried about me getting angry, so told me mid-Germany), the poor thing had flown from Melbourne to Seoul, had an overnight stay and brewery dinner with his Dad, Pierre, then flown to Heathrow and waited three hours for an overnight bus to Edinburgh, arriving early Saturday morning, but had to wait to see me until Sunday night when I arrived back from the Haggis tour! To say he was tired on arrival was an understatement.

He waved frantically as Haggis busses pulled into Edinburgh, only to realise there were more than one and he was getting strange looks after the first two! I gave him such a huge hug when I got off the bus and found him shaking like a leaf - very cute! He waited for me to say goodbye to everyone on the tour and took me to our lovely accommodation right off the Royal Mile, told me to sit down and said his pre-rehearsed proposal speech (400 times apparently!), got down on one knee and showed me the gorgeous heirloom ring.

Incredibly romantic and such Simon style!

Of course I said yes, well actually, I said 'of course' and then I waited for him to calm down and stop shaking (at least now I knew why!), and we went down for a drink with some of those from the tour (barely containing our excitement!).

The next day we explored Edinburgh, did some groceries for making superb lunches, had a nice lunch with Sibel before she headed off for London and then hiked part of the way up Arthurs Seat for a pretty incredible view of Edinburgh - blue skies and a clear view meant that everyone and their dog was out hiking Arthurs Seat, there was such a line up to the top that we decided a detour off the half way mark was a good idea!

View of Parliament and Holyrood House from the mini Arthurs Seat 

There were an awful lot of people on the zig zag path in the middle there - I love how natural the Arthurs Seat area has been kept, gravel paths only the entire way and no signs at all! 

We still got a pretty reasonable view from our vantage point!

Today we woke up very early and decided to catch the sunrise on the Edinburgh skyline - we were glad we did. The city was deserted and although it was a little nippy, the sun was beginning to shine - it was a promise of the beautiful weather we would have for the rest of the day. We walked across to Princes St Gardens and watched the sun rise through the clouds and then took the stairs up to Calton Hill to sit on the monument nicknamed 'Edinburgh's Disgrace' as they only ever built 1/4 of what was originally planned before running out of money.

In the forecourt of Hollyrood House

After heading back to the apartment, having a yummy breakfast of toasted bagels, sauteed mushrooms, smoked salmon and cheesy scrambled eggs (sorry about the detail, but it was so good, its a new fav of ours I think!) and doing domestic things like washing (yay for the apartment having a washer/dryer and not having to handwash my clothes in hostel sinks!), we walked out to Hollyrood Palace. Hollyrood is a 'working palace' (as our audio guide told us repeatedly and rather bullishly!), with many state functions still carried out here; in addition to being the Queen's residence for part of every year. No photos were allowed inside, here's a link to some online, but we got a few outside the front!

We decided to treat ourselves to a nice dinner to celebrate the happenings of the week, it was pretty scrumptious and got ready to leave what will be a favourite place of ours forever.

Princes St Gardens in the sunlight! (Edinburgh Castle in the background)

The next morning we checked out and spent a few hours doing some last tourist shopping and relaxing in Prices St Gardens, soaking up the sun before making our way to the airport.

Scotland - Edinburgh and Haggis tour - pre-engagement!!!

Jess and I dropped mum off at the airport and returned the rental car and argued for our discounts - beware Irish car rental companies, their bills don't add up and they'll sting you at any chance! all the travel review websites on the subject are right.

Anyhow, we spent most of the day in the airport waiting for our flight, which was delayed, but we made it to Edinburgh and caught the nice quick airlink bus into the city (the strange guy chatting to us notwithstanding)!

First impressions of Edinburgh; thank goodness I don't have to drive through it in a rental car(!); Jess says it's like a smaller, more relaxed version of London; with grey, soot covered buildings; little hills that the city traverses up, down and around everywhere; and so many little alleyways off main streets, with interesting little nook and crannies - I am really enjoying exploring and it will be a great place for Simon and I to have a few days to unwind.

After we'd checked in, been ribbed by the Aussies behind the desk of the hostel and wandered around the city for a little bit (nice view of the city from the nearby Dublin castle!), we had an early dinner and spent the rest of the night talking to the lovely Kerryn, an American with an English accent after living in London for four years.

Day two in Edinburgh was our walking day, we wandered around the pretty Princes gardens

Rolling hills of daffodils!

Princes St Gardens overlooking the new city

All of the chairs are dedicated, with little plaques detailing their message 

Gorgeous flowers everywhere!

 and Jess and I explored the beautiful city of Edinburgh, taking in a free tour the hostel put on (run by a Canadian guy who took great amusement from mocking the Scottish!). The tour was full of awesome little historical stories, like that of the statue of little Bobby. Reputedly one of the most photographed landmarks in Edinburgh, the statue of the dog, little Bobby, commemorates a 'wee dog' who never left his master's side. 

To paraphrase the story, his master was the warden of Greyfriar's graveyard, a church who had to employ security to stop grave-robbers entering, and once the warden died, he was buried in Greyfriar's as an exemption to their usually strict 'entrance' requirements to recognise his contribution. Little Bobby never left his master's grave, and when kicked out of Greyfriar's every night by the new warden, he would always find a way back in - no matter how many holes they filled, fences they built, or extended; little Bobby would be patiently resting next to his master's graveside for the rest of his long life. When the little dog finally passed away, the city chose to commemorate him by erecting a statue in his likeness near Greyfriars, so that he could always be by his master's side. So the story goes anyhow!

Edinburgh has a lot of pubs - all selling pretty great food, locally brewed and stored ales (beer from a cask - Simon tells me its banned in Australia - tastes different!), whisky (of course - they are the kings of whisky over here!) and it seems like every pub has a story that goes with its naming. For instance, there is Maggie Dickinsons' - the lady who evaded death by hanging (for adultery and having a child out of wedlock) by being so overweight that the noose only knocked her out rather than snapping her neck, with the sight of her sitting up in the undertaker's cart enough to strike fear into all of the superstitious Scots who saw her; she spent the rest of her days working at the pub that now bears her name, consoling all those about to be executed as they drank their final whisky. So many stories! 

(Public warning: Nasty details and gory stories replicated below! For those with a sensitive stomach, don't read immediately after eating...)

Another that stuck out for me was Princes St Gardens, which is now an incredibly lush, green rolling valley containing fields of daffodils (that brought an involuntary 'wow' to jess' lips, see above for amazing-ness!), gorgeous old trees and picturesque little flower arrangements. It was previously Nor Loch (a lake) where the waste of Edinburgh drained to, and its the sort of waste that they collected in the bathroom during the day and threw out of the window once the bell struck at 10pm. For a city which was, for its time, reasonably densely populated, the stench from this draining waste was enough to give Edinburgh the nickname old stinker (or something similar once translated!). The city drained the lake in the 1820's (such history!) and it was when it was removing one mighty stinking layer of sludge (ew!), that they found the bodies of over 300 people. The bodies were those who had perished after being accused of witchcraft; with the test of whether you were a witch or not being to tie your hands to your feet and throw you off Edinburgh castle into the stinking Loch below. Once you bounced off the rocks a few times on your way down, if you managed to somehow stay alive, you were deemed a witch (as 'obviously' the devil's hand was at play if you were managing to stay alive), and if you drowned, your name was cleared. Horrific! Even more nasty was the torture techniques used against those who did manage to float - one wife's limbs were stretched to the state of irreperable damage and agony and she was hung in this state over her husband who was being slowly killed by the addition of a weight, every half and hour onto his body until his ribs gave in and were crushed. Truly barbaric - the extent of truth to the stories who knows, but I heard similar from our bus tour guide, so it seems to be the consensus.

We also went up to Calton Hill, with nice views of the city and the 'National Disgrace' monument.

Monument of National Disgrace (they run out of money to finish it!)

Nice view, with a lonely park bench!

We met Sibel, a PEGS friend who came up from York for the Haggis tour, for dinner and worked out where we had to go in the morning to depart on our Haggis tour!

Our Haggis tour wasn't too big, around 30 people or so in a midibus, with two guides. Leo was our skilled bus driver, strict on talking when we should have been listening to his reverential tales, incredibly knowledgeable and great at making up the details as he chose! His cras humour was an amusing mix with his harry potter-esque glasses!

I'm bad at remembering details of our trip and I didn't take too many photos on the way, but our first day was up through Stirling and listening to stories of Scottish history, to Glencoe, a snack at a 'pit stop' famous for its 'heelan coo' (scottish for highland cow - they are just gorgeous - they have Cousin IT hair over their eyes, google them!), Hamish; Fort William for a whisky distillery tour (with a deadpan humour distill-er who was telling people off left right and centre!), through incredible scenery of the Great Glen and pulling up next to Loch Ness for a night in Fort Augustus.

Stunning!

One of the old castles on the way

We went on a 'Nessy' boat cruise on Loch Ness (pretty chilly!), it is a beautiful lake and is huuuuuge, the depths are just incredible, hundreds of metres in places - you may as well be in the ocean! The eccentric cap-i-tan showed us his IP protected 'sonar system' for seeking out the huge creatures, and let us have a glimpse of his mobile phone pictures, 'evidence', of the huge creatures, which showed up on his sonar at up to 13 tonne or something absolutely incredible. He even mentioned the 'evidence' he had MIT examining 'at the moment' - it is always hard to know just how much to believe with the 'scientific proof' you are shown (oooh, quotation marks sound so cynical!) - who knows, he might actually be right. In such an incredibly large lake, I could believe that there could have evolved a number of incredibly large and almost whale-like creatures - the mystery of Nessy lives on!

We went back to the hostel for a huge dinner and some trivia and drinks in the bar. We'd met some pretty cool people thus far on the tour, there were quite a few internationals working in London - Alesha a Sydney girl, Angela and Joseph who were Canadian flatmates and Andrew and Kelly, the New Zealanders.

On the second day we headed out to the Isle of Skye for some more spectacular scenery, an amazing hike up a mountain to see the old Man of Storr,

A-ma-zing.....

a walk around a cute little beach town,

dunking our heads in a cold stream to commemorate an old Faerie story and back to Fort Augustus for a 'Scottish highland' show by a descendent of the MacDonald clan, who showed us (with poor volunteers!) how to fold up and dress in a kilt and many stories of what life was like back then.

the little lambs were so cute!

The third day we tried a Scottish hakka to entice Nessie from the Loch and headed back along the way to Edinburgh, stopping to look at Culloden Moor, one of the most brutal battle sights between the Scottish and the English. It was a great tour, with a good bunch of friendly people and the Scottish scenery was just spectacular!

A castle that was quite protected by its historical society who really wanted everyone to pay 11 pounds entry and built big fences to stop any photos!

The sign next to a rock on a string - Scottish humour!