Saturday, 30 April 2011

Ireland part two!

Killarney National Park
We set off from Killarney (and some interesting antics with paper feeds into the eftpos machine and forgetful keys) to find a nice walk to do in Killarney National Park. 


We walked past Muckross House, the country home of Jess' future husband, where she will receive you for non fat tea and scones (made with lemonade), and walked onto torc waterfall, which unlike other dam spillways labelled as waterfalls in Ireland, was actually a pretty decent waterfall. 
On the walk to the Waterfall, Muckross house in the background
Torc Waterfall, Mum and I

We drove around the coast, with a few pretty views along the way and a lot of cute little towns, but it took forever! The drive was pretty slow and although the scenery was nice and the towns cute, it wasn't worth the three hour detour and consequent headache of such crazy one way streets, 100km/hr roads that you don't get out of second, or if you are lucky, third gear on!


By the time we reached Cork, we headed straight for the much acclaimed English Market (note, lonely planet fail on this one), which was nice but not huge. Jess was happy, as she found, not her future husband unfortunately, but barleygrass (a close second apparently); which is the infamous ingredient in our Flemington gym's 'green drink'. The market was housed in a cool warehouse and we liked one of their interesting bread shops! We also picked up an interesting slice for breakfast for the next morning and stopped for coffee in the upstairs area overlooking it all.


We checked into our accommodation, argued that we didn't want to be charged in US dollars without first being asked (but it's the same thing? Um, no, not when (1) you are Australian and (2) your card only has euros on it and (3) you pressed signature verified before I've even signed it and now you're going to have to void the entire transaction and hope you haven't been charged for it - I think we were in a perfect mood to be annoyed by that guy!) and walked back down to cork city centre for dinner. Cork is a nice place, the main shopping street was packed full of after work shoppers and their university area is huge.


The next day we set off to visit Blarney castle, and even though we didn't kiss the stone, the castle and it's gardens were beautiful.






Where you kiss the Blarney stone - the darker grey, years of saliva buildup, shadow at the bottom there!



We drove from Blarney up to Kilkenny and stopped in a few cute towns along the way, like Cashel, which was quaint and their cafe's veggie soup pretty decent.
Rock of Cashel - undergoing renovations
After finding our hotel in the outskirts of Kilkenny (an amazing Internet rate though, 78 euros for the three of us including a full breakfast), we headed back into the town for dinner. Kilkenny Castle contains a brilliant (with a capital B) park area that is utilised by the entire town; it was teeming with groups of teenagers kicking soccer balls around, families keeping littlies amused, others running around the park's circuit and tourists strolling through, cameras at the ready!
Swans!
From Kilkenny we drove through the Wicklow Park area and stopped at Glendalough's lakes for some spectacular scenery, relaxing walks to a little waterfall and around the lower lake and a picturesque picnic by the upper lake. Definitely on the 'come back here again' list.
The picturesque Glendalough lakes

Picnic by the lake!


University square
With a few stops along the way, we headed up to our accommodation just out of Dublin and crashed for the night. The next day, having worked out our transport options, we hopped on a double decker bus into the city (sitting at the front of a double decker, going quite fast and stopping on the behind of another car is quite disturbing at first!).
Dublin isn't an incredibly aesthetic city, as far as European cities go, everything is pretty bleak and grey and there aren't too many tourist attractions. We spent the day walking around, and covered off all of the sites of the hop on hop off tourist bus'! We started at the University, where Jess had a look in at the Book of Kells, wandered around to the Cathedrals, 



had lunch in a nice park along the way and took in other city sights before venturing up to the Guinness Storehouse (where you almost choke on the smell of fermenting sugars and yeast within a two block radius!). We didn't really fancy the tourist tour, but just went into the shop and bought a few prezzies. After that we wandered up to one of the museums, had a look around, decided that the old silver coin collection didn't really grab our attention and headed back towards the bus stop. Over an early dinner we decided we couldn't leave Ireland without sampling a pot of Guinness, so shared one with our irish stews!


The next morning we said goodbye to Mum as she flew back to Thailand and Jess and I continued to Scotland!




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Monday, 18 April 2011

Ireland on a micra scale

Mum and I flew into Dublin from Berlin with aer lingus and their suitably green colored planes and uniforms!

the little micra!
Our rental car for the week is a little red Nissan micra and it has been really easy to drive, even on the tiny (and I mean one lane, no verge and rock walls either side) roads we've come across so far on our trip. We rented a gps as well, and it's proved a godsend (mostly!) in us knowing road names when the signs are missing.


Outside the stallion's boxes




We set off from the airport bound for the Irish national stud. We walked around as the stallions were being led to service, paddock or stable; the mares and their super cute foals were put to bed for the night and listened as the tour guide made many euphemisms so the language would go over the head of the kids on the tour. It was an interesting insight into the peak of the industry.


From Kildare we drove across to our accommodation for the night, at Galway. Some of the roads are being re-done at the moment, and our gps was very confused so we had a bit of a detour along the new motorway to Limerick before correcting up to Galway.

Green, rocks and sheep!
On our drive we lots of animals; sheep, goats, some cows and horses; but what struck me was the green-ness of everything and the use of rock everywhere - road side fences are rock walls, everyone has rock wall driveway entrances and even a proportion of stone houses!

We pulled into our bnb for the night, found an Irish pub and awoke to Marian's (our bnb hostess), huge irish breakfast. The irish make interesting brown bread! Marian had a good chat with us, she's the president of the local flower association (you should see her garden!) and has a daughter studying in Adelaide. Everywhere we go we are told that the person's son/daughter/relative is living in Australia at the moment, I think the unemployment realities of Ireland are pushing people elsewhere.

We set off in the little red micra for a day of driving around the Connemarra. It was a drizzly day, so we just stopped quickly at lots of different places, but spent most of the day in the car.

Friar
We stopped at an old Franciscan Friar, which was down a one way 'lane' (if it can even be called that!) and wandered through the ruins. 



In the Friar - note the burial plaques on the ground, some from the 1970s - a strange wish to be buried in the middle of a Friar I think.....








We encountered some interesting roads on our journey, with one lane streets so little even the micra only just squeezed through, and blind corners that you hoped had no one coming the opposite direction. If we didn't have the gps we would have not had a clue! Although, it did take us down some interesting paths!




Some of the pretty views along the way
The towns over here are so little and quaint, with barely two pubs marking some, others are larger with one or two main streets, but a fabulous laid back attitude in all, I've really enjoyed having a walk along (usually on a quest for a bathroom!).

The scenery has been more barren than we had expected, with mountain after mountain covered only with tufts of grass between exposed rock and greenery only in the lower areas. There are sheep and cute little lambs everywhere, which may explain the lack of vegetation.

We had a lamb pie for dinner, just to try to even up the balance a bit (joking Chloe!)

Day Three:
We hoped to get to Cliffs of Moher on our way to picking up Jess, my friend from Melbourne who's teaching in London and currently has school holidays, but just ran out of time. We went through some towns close to the area and had a pretty good view of some of the cliffs as we went, there seems to be spectacular views at every turn here, it's pretty amazing.

We picked up Jess without any problems and headed out to the Dingle peninsula, had a very mediocre soup at a cafe in Glin (you win some, you lose some!) and traversed the Connor Pass on our way to Dingle.

View from the Connor Pass
The Connor Pass winds up through mountains, on a very little and at times quite precarious little road. Once at the top we pulled over and hiked up to the top of the hill for an even better view, but mainly just to get out of the car!
The one lane road for both direcctions of traffic - Connor Pass

Fungie, the Dingle dolphin...... hmmmmm.....
We drove onto Dingle, which is a cute little fishing village out on it's namesake's peninsula. We wandered down its streets, had a look in some of the gift stores, marvelled at the cutest little cheese shop (Simon you would be in heaven!) and had a coffee down on the dock area.
More at dingle

We drove back from Dingle to Killarney where we met our next bnb hostess, Greta, who was also very lovely and settled in for the night.

Day four:

After discovering that Jess likes horseriding, we looked up on the Internet a few places to ring and found one with availability for us in the morning (hopefully before it started raining again), so we were all set for a day of driving around the ring of Kerry and taking in some pretty special scenery as well as a trailride to start the day.

A roadside stop along the way - incredible!
Another hearty Irish breakfast under our belts (or expanding jeans!), we drove through some pretty incredible forest, lakeside and coastal views to get to our horses.







Our leader, Caroline, was a pretty typical horsey person, blunt, upfront and reasonably cautious. She relaxed a bit when we she could see we could ride. Mum was on a lovely plodder of a Clydesdale, Murphy, Jess had the piebald Clancy and I had the cheeky Gillipurn (spelling, who knows!)
The beautiful boys!

Me on Gillipurn
Our ride consisted of walking along the roads to get to the beach area, through a few inlets and sand dunes and a spell along the beach. We had some nice little trots with our horses flicking each other with their tails, or even kicking out in annoyance if one invaded the others personal space and I had a nice canter along. The scenery was spectacular, with mountains surrounding the deserted beach, and cute holiday homes dotted along the coast. It will be an awesome memory of the trip (even if we did have to wash our clothes again that night!)

After the excitement of the ride we drove around the Ring of Kerry and witnessed some pretty incredible views. Caroline had recommended we travel to Valentia island and we had a lovely lunch at Portmagee on the coast there.
Scenery along the drive



In the afternoon we came across the ruinous Ballycarbery castle, the place where Jess was held against her will awaiting rescue from her future fantasy husband on a white horse(!), and a stone fort dating from early AD, that was closely guarded by a herd of heifers (Jess asked them politely to move, but they must not have heard; although, she swears one of them gave her the evil eye for the rest of her walk!)
Stone fort


By the time we made it back to the bnb we were pretty zonked! Another long day of driving, but some great sights seen.

According to my trusty travel companions I must report on the fabulous Irish stew we had for dinner, sitting at the bar at Murphy's pub, and the rather large pint of bulmers I had that made for an interesting walk home. The end. (Jess and Mum's thoughts on the matter will receive no comment!)


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Saturday, 16 April 2011

The final German destination, Berlin

East Side Gallery
Angela put on another amazing German breakfast and then kindly drove us to the train station for our train to Berlin.

On arrival, we dropped our bags at the hotel and hopped on the train across to the East Side Gallery to view the Berlin Wall


East Side Gallery - there was a football game on nearby so the cars were lined up!
We then got back on the train to get to the Charlottenburg Palace and walked around the buildings and gardens. So many people use the gardens as their running track or where they walk their dog - such an impressive place to call that your 'normal' area.
Charlottenburg Palace - from the front

Charlottenburg Palace, from the back

Spring at Charlottenburg!
Church next to Alexanderplatz
The next day we headed out for another big walking day - we started at Alexanderplatz.

From there we walked around the streets of Berlin, past so many incredible buildings - such history. We didn't stop to look in any as we had lots on the list to see!


....and some interesting architecture in places!
Just for Camille - there's an entire shop floor devoted to Minis!
'typical' street :P




Checkpoint Charlie
We took in some of the sobering sights of Berlin, with Checkpoint Charlie, the site of all the SS buildings that now has a big museum on the area documenting the rise of Hitler.

We walked through Brandenburg gate, Potzdam place, and took a train to the large department store, KaDeWe. Angela told us that we had to check out the food level and it was pretty impressive. A DavidJones food court on a grand scale.
Brandenburg Tor
A very strange tourist contraption, everyone cycles and one guy steers - often with jerky motions - very strange!
We headed back to the hotel for a quiet night to get ready for our flight to Dublin - two weeks in Germany flew by, but we saw so much, we had a fabulous time.


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