
We got out of the heat and had a long lunch at a nice restaurant instead of trying to cram any more ancient sites in before catching the bus back to the airport. The outer city of Athens was more run down than I expected, with crumbling inner city buildings. There seemed to be police everywhere and the city very quickly turned to dusty and sparse paddocks as we got to the airport; interestingly though, there was a huuuge ikea, two separate buildings worth next to the airport which looked very new! We flew out to Santorini next and were met at the airport by someone from our hostel - most of the accommodation providers on the various islands offer free airport and port transfers, it makes things very easy!
We stayed in a quieter area of Santorini called Parissa Beach, it has a range of budget accommodation, a line of restaurants along the black pebbly beach and that's about it!
We hired a car for a day (cheaper and much more convenient than the bus, but santorini roads are a recipe for a headache!). We went first to Fira, a heavily tourist area with lots of overpriced shops and over five hundred steps to where to cruise ships dock. We also visited Oia, where the stereotypical pictures of Santorini are taken, and wandered the cool streets and waited for the sun to set. The view from Oia (Eeeea) is pretty incredible, and our sunset didn't disappoint, even with the hordes of tourists - this is definitely somewhere to come in the low season, I could only imagine what it would be like in the high season.

Apart from that we had some time on the beach, some great Greek food at the restaurants (including 2euro gyros pitas or lunch, yum!) and cheap cocktails at the hostel.
One of the hostel guys was trying to get fit again so he took us up a nearby mountain to the remains of the ancient city of Thira, there wasn't too much to see, but we had a nice view! It was a nice hike, Selen even continued up another hill to an old monastery.

From Santorini, our next stop was Ios by ferry. Ios is party central, with our hostel's guests being a handful of very friendly twenty-something aussies talking about how drunk they were last night, which article of clothing or wallet or room key they or their friend lost the previous night and how drunk they are intending on being tonight! An interesting bunch! Our hostel manager, George, is so laid back, he didnt ask for payment until we offered it as we left, and has an open bar policy that extends to quite a few bottles of spirits on display and a decent fridge of beer - another interesting and extremely nice guy. Apparently his catch phrase is, 'dont worry about it' (think Greek accent), 'I make my money in the high season,.. now doesn't matter'..!
We ate our obligatory Thai dinner at George's sister's restaurant in town, where the new waiter was an eighteen year old mechanic from Bristol who had run out of money during his travels and was earning enough for rent and his night's worth of drinks (we knew his life story before we had ordered!), soaked up he atmosphere at George's open bar alongside the pool (George wasn't there, he'd entrusted the 'responsibility' of the bar duties to Simon, a 27year old Melbourne accountant who had lost two jumpers in the four nights he'd been there, most of which were total write offs... Then we headed to 'Ali baba's', a bar whose approach to RSA would have had it banned in Aus! Basically, a english guy had set up a bar and restaurant here with the brilliant idea of serving large cocktails to people, complete with 50cm long straws, in a fishbowl.... Each fishbowl probably held two litres of liquid and contained a pretty substantial amount of liquor, one was enough for four people. The guy was doing so well he was shutting down his restaurant to expand the bar, I bet the neighbors are impressed! The sandwichboard on the road advertises the fishbowl as 'the most cost-effective way to start your night!' After a fill of cocktails, the groups head to the main town square which is full of bars and clubs to continue the party until the next morning. I can't believe how people back up night after night, some there were going on a month or longer, straight!
The town of Ios itself was very small, we visited a few nice shops but the predominant business here is alcohol, with two thirds (from what i can see) of the premises being bars, it is a bit of a strange vibe actually, especially when combined with all the Aussie accents that your hear as you walk through the town.
We had a twenty minute walk or so to the nearest beach, which had beautiful white sand, was very quiet and Sibel had a great time floating in the water. Selen and Colleen joined us later in the day, after sleeping in to catch up after the night before! We only stayed in ios for two nights before moving on via a huge ferry (think a third of the spirit of tassie size, it was transporting cars and had a huge number of seats), to Naxos.
Naxos is probably the retirement location of our Greek Island hops, with very few accommodation offers on the hostel booking sites, the place we ended up choosing is filled with older (and very tanned!) couples on holiday and a trip on the bus is interesting for it's grey haired character!
It is another lovely island though, with a labyrinth town area alongside the port and a waterfront area filled with fifty year old restaurants. Colleen and I did a big circle yesterday when looking at shops, the lady who we passed the hour before was quite amused! The water here is so clear that even in the port area I can see through to the rocks and sand below.
We have taken a bus to one of the beaches along the 30km or so strip of uninterrupted sand, and with busses coming only every two hours or so, you don't want to miss the trip home!
We've also eaten our gyros at a restaurant on the waterfront that had been operating for sixty years or so; had yoghurt, honey and walnut flavored ice-cream from a colourful cafe man who enjoyed chatting with Colleen and I and receiving exact change ('those damn Americans come in off the boat with a fifty euro note, what am I supposed to do?').
Naxos has been surprising for it's shopping though, with many hand made goods on offer; beautiful jewellery (Colleen and I watched a man grinding away at a shell in his store), hand woven textiles (I bought too much there!) and other arty stores we haven't yet entered. The girls have bought quite a few nice dresses in stores we have come across.
Like the rest of the Greek Islands, Naxos' residents partake in a good 2pm-6pm siesta in opening hours, there's not much to do but sit by the pool or beach, pity really!
The nightlife is the marked difference here, without the crowds of noisy twenty-something Aussies, the bars are a lot quieter. The girls were out last night and had cheap cocktails, but were given as many on the house as they paid for - though the bartender was apparently pretty slimy!
Tomorrow we are off to Syrous enroute to Kos, where we'll stay for a few nights before heading to turkey via Bodrum.

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Location:Island hopping, Greece



















